December 2011
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13
I have ridden 1,000 waves.
The surf today was ok, nothing really special. I felt good. I felt like I was surfing the waves well, even if they weren’t great.
My 1,000th wave was pretty unremarkable.
When I started doing this 1,000 wasn’t something I thought of as a huge accomplishment, it was what I considered the bare minimum I could do before considering myself “a...
“Sometimes people let the same problem make them miserable for years when they...”
– Andy Warhol (via maybachs)
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17
- Right after parking, 2 guys asked if they could use my phone (because their car had been stolen). They said my phone wasn’t working and I had to tell them to put in the area code first (my phone isn’t from San Diego). They made a few calls then left. I hope everything turned out ok for them.
- Water was ice cold again
- Saw 2 guys in speedos surfing wavestorms down the middle of...
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11
- water was ice cold and crystal clear
- about 2 feet
- surfed right by the pier
- felt like I had forgotten how to surf my funboard
- got dropped in on by an older lady wearing a hat
- Total is 973
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20
I am back from Maui!
It was rad.
I surfed a shortboard (!) that I rented there.
Surfing the shortboard was hard (obviously) since I normally surf a 7’6” funboard.
But I did it and managed to catch waves (@ like 1 or 2 an hour as I struggled to figure out the short board and avoid dying on a reef).
My feet and right leg are shredded from hitting reef and rock.
The waves...
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5
Surfed yesterday. It was kind of small. I’ve been out of the water for a while because I’ve been feeling sick. Mostly better now. Tomorrow I’m going to Hawaii! Gonna try to surf there but kind of nervous, not sure what it will be like.
Total Now: 943
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