February 2011
January 2011
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I woke up with a pretty bad hangover. The cure: 2 advil, a room temp beer, and into the 55° water.
The surf was choppy but way better than it has been in a while. I had a lot of fun. There was some kind of contest going on at shores. For little kids I think. I got beat pretty hard on a few waves but it felt good and got my head right.
“The world is infinitely more interesting than any of my opinions concerning it.”
– Nicholas Nixon, Magnificent Ruin (via nevver)
see for yourself!
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2 again! I’m starting to notice an AWFUL TREND here!
Anyway it wasn’t the best, closed out again.
Next time the surf is good I’m going to surf until my arms fall off.
I miss good surf.
I miss sucking so bad that I would have thought the 2 waves I got today were the best waves of my life.
“Nature is unsentimental. Death is built in.”
– carl sagan (via fuckthisblog)
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there was south swell w/ a short period but it was closed out and I hate going left anyway. There was some northwest swell but it was seriously like a wave every 30 minutes. I only managed to get 2 of the nice rights and even those were kind of closed out.
my computer is being upgraded at work and I can’t use it so I just went home. Now I don’t know if I should go surf more or...
“I learned this, at least, by my experiment: that if one advances confidently in...”
– Henry David Thoreau, Walden (via soul-surfer)
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surf today was tiny and closed out BUT a guy I know from work was out there! And he let me ride his board! It was fun to try another board even if I only got to stand on it for half a second before the close out. I need to get another board. This foam thing isn’t cutting it.
I got up on a bunch of them but they were all so short so I’m just counting 2: the best one I got on his...
Watchbeen thinking of getting a new board. maybe I just get a nice flat piece of wood.