January 2011
December 2010
“If I were to wish for anything, I should not wish for wealth and power, but for...”
– Søren Kierkegaard (via soul-surfer)
“If I were to wish for anything, I should not wish for wealth and power, but for...”
– Søren Kierkegaard (via soul-surfer)
“Backmasking n. the instinctive tendency to see someone as you knew them in their...”
– The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows: backmasking
Listen
“Hello, babies. Welcome to Earth. It’s hot in the summer and cold in the...”
– Kurt Vonnegut
1 tag
7
Honestly counting is hard and I am just saying 7 because it sounds good. Surfed today for a few hours. Waves were massive and closed out. The waves kept breaking in this way that made rainbows appear it was pretty neat. The rides weren’t the best, kind of just the “if you make it and survive it’s a success” variety. There was one in particular where I thought I was...
1 tag
be different pact →
I wear one of these wrist brands. I feel kind of silly when anyone asks me to explain what it is. But the truth is it’s hard to remember to be a good person some times. It’s easy and natural to be a dick. I still am sometimes or even a lot of the time. But the wristband is at least there to make me THINK about it. You can get one for free.
1 tag
25
TUMBLR! I have not been good about counting my waves. Partly because I usually tumbl at work and now I’m on vacation. A VACATION I PLANNED TO SPEND SURFING EVERY DAY but then it rained for like a week straight ugh.
Anyway this is a few times before the break & xmas eve & today put together. xmas eve was legit so fun some of the best surf. Today wasn’t that good, closed...
1 tag
3
I surfed at lunch!
The waves were small!
Only counting ones that were “worth counting” (duh?).
Really wanted to go right and kept messing up surfable waves by refusing to go left.
1 tag
10
I surfed on saturday and it was fun. It was foggy. I could not see the shore form the lineup. It was also a little messy. But I like that because it split the crowd up to all the different peaks. I hit myself in the face with my foamy and cut my lip but I didn’t care.
Afterwards I went and saw Temper Trap & The Black Keys and they were amazing. Also Sleigh Bells & Tokyo...
1 tag
10
Got up with the sun today to surf! My gf made me eggs and sausage before I left, so good.
Surf was good, a little crowded but I still fought my way in there. It was sloppy but that was actually a bonus, there were tons of different peaks to pick from so I only got crowded out a few times.
On my first wave I got COMPLETELY dropped in on by a girl who was obviously learning to surf. I got right...
“I have a theory that the truth is never told during the nine-to-five hours.”
– Hunter S. Thompson (via kissmeimlazy)
1 tag
7
Surfline said small and clean, so any guess what the surf was actually like?
Big and choppy of course! And kept getting sucked out by rip currents too.
It was still a lot of fun though. I made it my goal to be more “fluid” and move around more. Got a lot of really good really long lasting rides and felt like I was maneuvering and responding intelligently.
Also ate it really hard...
